Within easy reach of Bangkok Thailand’s modern capital are two of its ancient capitals, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai.
The splendor of Ayutthaya’s past is obvious in its magnificent ruins that are scattered around the modern city like pebbles on a beach. Majestic hardly describes the relics of this ancient kingdom.
The UNESCO World Heritage site Phra Nokhon si Ayutthaya Historical Park is vast and home to many significant ruins like the Wihan Somdet Hall cloistered on three sides and was the first building in ancient Ayutthaya to be covered in gold leaf. A fitting decoration for coronation, and investiture ceremonies that used to he held there.
The Viham Phra Mongkol Bophit it is home to one of the Thailand’s largest bronze Buddha images, even though a restoration of the original which was badly damaged by a lightening strike this Buddha image is still impressive.
The ancient city walls are visible below their later reconstruction by Rama IV; it is fun to trace the original extent of this old city. The buildings styles too are interesting being a fascinating mix of Hindu and Khmer-inspired motifs and styles.
A little way outside Ayutthaya is the Prasat Nakhon Luang the skeleton of the former summer retreats of the Ayutthaya kings. It sits on the banks of the Pasak River, one of the rivers and canals that formed the city’s defences.
Today there are groups of ruins and rows of headless Buddhas where once a grand empire thrived, but even in their present un-restored Ayutthaya relics are breathtaking and awesome in their grandeur and antiquity.
There are so many sites of interest in and around the city that the most efficient way to see them all is to hire a bicycle or even hitch a ride on elephant back..
Older than Ayutthaya is another capital of a former kingdom. Sukhothai was founded in the 13th century as the first truly independent Thai kingdom that enjoyed a golden age under King Ramkhamhaeng who was credited for devising the Thai alphabet.
Sukhothai Historical Park is another of Thailand’s must see UNESCO Heritage Sites. So what is to see? The ruins of ancient palaces, Buddhist temples, the city gates, walls and even moats are an entrancing spectacle especially as the setting sun sheds a tangerine coloured cloak over the ruins.
The countryside around Sukhothai is laced with ancient temples. And the city walls encloses many attractions. The old royal palace lies in the centre of the town and is surrounded by the original moat covering an immense 160,000 meters. It was in the royal palace that the stone containing the first written Thai words were discovered during the reign of King Mongkut (Rama IV). In the middle of the 19th century King Ramkhamhaeng’s original throne was installed in the Temple of the Emerald Buddha in Bangkok.
Within the walls is a large eight meter tall Buddha image that sits in an avenue of partly ruined pillars. Stroll to the back of the shrine and a mill-pond-still lake reflects the scene as if viewed in a looking glass. This is a tranquil place and perfect for a contemplative moment or two.
To the south stands a pedestal of a large Chedi built up in steps, the lowest platform is adorned with beautiful stucco figures of demons, elephants and lions with angels riding on their backs. Look out too for the famous ‘pineapple’ chedi at Wat Phra Phai Luang.
The Sukhothai National Park has been immaculately restored by the Thai Fine Arts Department and the gardens are ablaze with plants and flowers of every hue.