Growing popularity among western tourists has destroyed much of Koh Samui's idyllic beaches. Now the Island is fighting back, re-claiming its reputation for tranquillity
Phuket is still the Queen of the Thai islands, and the premier resort, but Koh Samui is now vigorously taking itself upmarket.
The sign at Koh Samui’s Nathorn Pier says “Welcome to the land of sun, sea and Singha” which says it all. (Singha being the nation’s favourite beer in case anyone doesn’t know).
Koh Samui's Full Moon Parties and Backpackers.
Over the years Koh Samui has become synonomous with full-moon parties, and the sort of back-packer lifestyle that means loud music throughout the night. To a large extent the island is still given over to wild parties and noisy nightlife, but it is slowly being reclaimed by those who look for tranquillity on near-isolated beaches. “Going up market” is the term, but “re-claiming and restoring a once tranquil beauty spot” is what is actually being done.
Avoid clattery Chaweng Beach if you want peace because the strip running behind this once idyllic beach has been colonised by open-air bars and restaurants, souvenir shops, jewellery stores, pharmacies, tailors, and ice-cream parlours. The same goes for Lamai beach which also has its share of noisy bars, eateries and shops, and Maenam beach, where, despite the pleasant walks in the hills above the village, sunbathers are constantly annoyed by the souveneir peddlers and food vendors who stalk the beach.
Instead head for Choeng Mon, a quiet bay just a few kilometres north of Chaweng. It’s near isolated beach is lined with casuarina trees and faces towards a small island, so close you could almost wade over to it. Within this bay are others, and it is here that you will find some spectacular resorts.
Of the resorts, a few stand out, Tongsai Bay, for one, which has suites, cottages and villas hidden in greenery on a hill facing a secluded beach. Not far away from here is the Samui Peninsula Spa and Resort which features elegant Thai-style villas with private pools and view of the beach and sea. The Imperial Boat House has been imaginatively constructed from old teak rice barges into deluxe two-story boat suites, located just a few metres from the beach and all with sunbathing decks overlooking a lush forest.
If you don’t hanker after deluxe living, then there are still affordable bungalows well away from the noisy strips. On the outskirts of many of these coves can be found budget accommodation which is clean and with good nearby facilities. There is also the Bay View Village which will suit a low budget.
It may be that you want a tranquil, peaceful day spent swimming and snorkelling coupled with heady nightlife. If this is the case, remember you are just a few minutes drive away from Chaweng.
Bangkok Airways has numerous flights daily from Bangkok.
Bus and Boat: from Bangkok by bus from Southern Bus Terminal, loaded on to the ferry at Don Sak), travelling time 13 hours.
Rail: From Bangkok to Surat Thani Railway Station, then bus to Samui (loaded on to ferry for Kohn Samui)