Malls of Bangkok: Silom Complex
Between Lumpini Park and Patpong, a Curious Shopping Mall
Shopping in Bangkok is varied, to say the least, and the malls are no exception. Oddball Silom Complex is the first installment in the Malls of Bangkok series.
Each mall in Bangkok has its own personality. It's just another example of how seriously people take shopping here. Silom Complex kicks off the Malls of Bangkok series, and rightly so. It's a funny place, but houses some nice surprises: a recent exhibition devoted to Ganesh, the best bookstore on all things Asia, a music school, and hand-pulled noodles.
Orchid Books
Orchid Books is the best English-language bookshop in the world on anything about Asia. Period. There's a particular emphasis on Southeast Asia, which is no big surprise. They opened their doors in Thailand in 1981. Looking for a book on Theravadic Buddhism in Thailand? Or do you want a book on Bante Srei temple, with large photographs so that you can see the architectural details? Or a well-researched title about the role politics has played in Southeast Asian pop music? Orchid Books has them, and much, much more. They also have their own press. Anyone interested in Asian art, religion, and culture owes himself a visit. Can't make it to Bangkok just yet? Go to their Web site, where you can download their catalogue and buy books online.
Shangarila Kitchen
Not to be confused with the 5-star hotel (they spell it without the a in the middle and use a hyphen), Shangarila Kitchen is one of a few places in town that make la mian, or Chinese hand-pulled noodles. The noodle chef works in the front window. It's worth gawking. What starts as an elaborate taffy pull quickly turns into pure magic. And the noodles are delicious.
Ganesh
The show about him is down now, but there is still a shop with many Ganesh sculptures. Why was there an exhibition in honor of Ganesh in the first place? Thais are Buddhist, but they have adopted the Elephant God from India, and many worship him. There is an outstanding Hindu temple a couple of kilometers further down Silom Road. Built in the 1870s, it is a colorful cake of a building, and it's always busy with devotees giving offerings to the large Ganesh idol there. It's a fifteen-minute walk from Silom Complex, or a quick tuk-tuk ride. You can buy flowers and bananas for the God of Art out front. Don't forget to remove your shoes at the door.
Bangkok Music Institute
Visitors probably won't have time to take lessons, but it's nice to have in the mall, anyway. Aree School of Dance Arts Silom is here, too, and a painting school. Ganesh seems to hold sway at this mall, so perhaps that's why culture thrives here.
Batuga Shoes
There are a couple of shops that sell shoes made in Thailand. Batuga is the flashier shop, with numerous versions of gold and silver sneakers studded with rhinestones.
Shopping in Bangkok is a many splendored activity. In addition to markets like Suan Lum and Pratuu Nam, there are scads of malls. The capital of Thailand can turn anyone into a mall rat. Don't resist! Each shopping mall is a microcosm unto itself.
The easiest way to get to Silom Complex is via BTS Skytrain. Get off at Sala Dang and you can walk directly onto the second floor of the mall.
The next mall in this series will be Siam Center, where the ultra-young and fashion-minded flock.
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