The Golden Triangle of Thailand

Burma, Laos and Thailand all seen from one vantage point.

© Mari Nicholson

Golden Triangle Hill Tribes in National Costume, Mari Nicholson

At a curve in the Mekong River, the three countries of Burma, Laos and Thailand converge and can be seen from the river bank. Hence the name, The Golden Triangle.

During the sixties and seventies, Northern Thailand was famous as the source of half the world’s supply of heroin which was grown high in the mountains that ran between that country and Burma. The climate is ideal for growing papaver somniferous, the opium poppy, and at the time of the USA's fight against Communism in Asia, and Vietnam War which spilled over into Laos and Cambodia, the covert operations of the CIA were encouraging its growth.Eventually the King of Thailand used his influence to encourage the Thai army to destroy the laboratories and routes of the notorious warlords who oversaw the activity.

Today, the inhabitants of this mountain area - at least on the Thai side - concentrate on more mundane crops, vegetables, flowers and fruit, the result of which has been a spectacular growth in tourism. The poppy still holds saw across the border in Burma.

The actual viewpoint at The Golden Triangle looks like a tourist trap. Local women and children dressed in traditional costumes accost you at the viewpoint offering themselves for the photo-opportunity. Behind all this, however, lies a beautiful land that is recovering from decades of neglect. Hardly surprising that some try to supplement their wages by posing for photographs. A few Baht will keep them happy.

Tourists can take a trip in a rowboat to get closer to Burma where the Burmese authorities are still waging war on the Karen tribespeople. It's a dangerous place so don't attempt to go ashore here. If you want to pop into Burma for a day do so at the legal border post. Putter downriver to nearby Laos for a complete contrast. Life doesn't seem to have changed here at all, children play on the river banks, and fishermen still cast their nets in the mighty Mekong.

There area is not too well supplied with rooms, one 5* hotel in the area with magnificent views of the triangle from its verandah, plus some budget accommodation, but the majority of people make their base in one of the three Northern towns, Chiang Mai (a city in all but name), Chiang Rai, and to a lesser extent the smaller town of Mae Hong Son. Hard to believe that the city of Chiang Mai was only accessible in the 1920's by trekking on an elephant through the teak jungle or by sailing down river on a bamboo raft (sill enjoyable today) and only 3 decades ago, Mae Hong Son was equally isolated.

The quieter of the two towns, Chiang Rai, does not have the number of hotels that Chiang Mai has, but many people find it’s less frenetic atmosphere more tranquil than the mini Bangkok that is today's Chiang Mai. There is as much brash, bustling traffic here as in Bangkok, there are the ubiquitous massage parlours - not all practicing the ancient medical and remedial Thai massage! - and there are the always propositioning tailor’s touts outside the shops, promising 3 suits for $60. Both towns have enough Buddhist Temples to keep the average tourist busy for many days.

In all 3 towns traders line the roadside in the early morning to sell their fruit and vegetables, and sellers of fake tee shirts, watches and handbags have their calculators at the ready for the bargaining that is obligatory. At dawn the orange-robed monks come walking down the streets to accept the alms given by the local people.

New for 2007 is the Pang Soong Nature Trail, a stunning four-hour walk along a pristine forest trail in Chiang Mai, a joint venture between the private sector and the village community. It follows the Mae Lai stream from the trail head at 1,000 metres above sea level back into the mountains and over or around some 17 waterfalls, to the source of the stream at 1.500 m.

The village owns the rights to the forest through which the trail runs and will levy an entrance fee for each tourist using the trail and will provide guides with knowledge of the forest to accompany all groups.

As a contrast to the cities, this Nature Trail walk is expected to be one of Chiang Mai’s most exciting ventures.

See also: http://thailand-travel.suite101.com/article.cfm/thailands_longnecked_women


The copyright of the article The Golden Triangle of Thailand in Thailand Travel is owned by Mari Nicholson. Permission to republish The Golden Triangle of Thailand must be granted by the author in writing.


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Golden Triangle, Mari Nicholson
Hill Tribe Children, Mari Nicholson
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Golden Triangle, Thailand, Mari Nicholson


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