Visiting Ranong, Thailand – A Sleepy Border Town
Off The Tourist Trail – Cycle Thailand and Visit Burma
Oct 18, 2009
Crowned by green hills, Ranong is home to a diverse community of Thais, Chinese, Burmese, and Muslims. A major gateway into Thailand for Burmese migrants, Ranong possesses a different vibe than other Thai towns. Lacking the bustle of other provinces, Ranong enjoys a relaxed pace of life, which makes it perfect for a getaway. For people wanting to leave the overused tourist trail, Ranong provides a glimpse into Thai provincial life.
Cycling Ranong, Thailand
As the wettest Thai province, the surrounding jungle holds natural delights. Cycling to the nearby hot springs brings one into close contact with the surrounding forest. The roads are good for cycling and the slopes have gentle inclines. Although the hot springs are a minor attraction, it’s possible to laze away the day eating next to picturesque streams, before winding around the forested roads nearby. Nearby waterfalls, such as Nam Tok Ngao, also provide destinations for cyclists.
Ranong is a walkable town, but cycling Ranong town is enjoyable as well. The Rattana Rangsarn Throne Hall, a large wooden structure is a good place to find people whiling away the afternoon. Directly behind the hall, the Khao Nives viewpoint provides a forested shelter to escape from the sun. Ranong has few large multistory buildings giving it a quaint feel. Along the main road, a few restaurants and bars with live music cater to the mainly Thai tourists who visit.
Diversity in Thailand
Gliding around Ranong, it’s easy to spot mosques, churches, Chinese temples, and Buddhist temples. There are a large variety of people living together in town. Next to the port, Burmese women wearing thanakha make their way to factories while Burmese men make their way towards towering, multi-tiered fishing boats or smaller long tail boats. There is not much shopping in Ranong, but a trip to the temple here will find quiet grounds devoid of tourists.
Visa Run to Kaw Thaung, Burma
The southern tip of Myanmar is a short thirty minute trip by long tail boat. Locals pay 50 Baht per one way trip and the voyage allows foreigners a new 15 day visa for Thailand. Boats will take you to Kaw Thaung (named Koh Song in Thai, and formerly known as Victoria Point), but travelers are unable to penetrate further into Burma from here. The water forms a natural cultural barrier as Kaw Thaung, a large island, is quite different from Ranong, Thailand.
Kaw Thaung has a dusty, tropical feel and there are many things to interest the curious. Men sip tea along the sidewalk while wearing longyis as fisherman work along their boats. Buddhist temples here center around large stupas, and a trip to the top point of the island provides an incredible view of the tin roof fishing communities below. The immediate sense is that Burma is poorer than its Thai neighbor, but friendly faces abound, and taking tea with locals or visiting the market provide a memorable stay.
For other travelers, two casinos are also accessible here. Mainly patronized by Thai – Chinese businessmen, and staffed by Filipinos, The Andaman Club and Treasure Island casinos are also accessible through the piers in Ranong. Kaw Thaung is a walkable town although inclines may press older travelers.
Leaving Ranong, Thailand
Bangkok is approximately 9 hours away by bus with tickets priced between 400 – 650 Baht depending on class. Buses stop at the southern bus terminal in Pinklao. Alternatively, Phuket, and other points along the coast are accessible by bus. There is no air service to Ranong, and air travelers will have to go to either Phuket or Surat Thani.
Surat Thani, with onward journeys to the islands in the Gulf of Thailand, is accessible by bus (or minivan service) for 180 baht from which travelers can fly to Bangkok or jump on the train to points north or south. The three and half hour bus ride is enjoyable as it winds its way through forested hills and plantations.
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