Thailand: River Kwai War Graves
Two cemeteries hold the graves of 70,000 Commonwealth soldiers
Mar 9, 2007
The Second World War saw some of the worst atrocities committed in Thailand by soldiers of the Imperial Japanese Army who were desperately trying to link Thailand and Burma by rail to further their war effort.
Many Thais died in this conflict. They were frequently removed from the area and buried in family plots away from the scene of death. The War Cemeteries at Kanchanaburi , Thailand, to which people make pilgrimage today, are The Commonwealth Graves for nearly 7000 Australian, New Zealand, Dutch and British prisoners of war. They lie near Kanchanaburi Station in Thailand, within easy reach of Bangkok and the resort towns of Hua Hin, Cha’am and Pranburi, further down on the coast.
The graves are marked with horizontal bronze plaques, looking for all the world like little brown lozenges set into the grass. Bougainvillaea in a riot of scarlet, purple and white, tumbles over the surrounding walls, and flowering trees and shrubs dot the grounds. It seems a strange thing to say, but this is truly a beautiful place.
From Kanchanaburi a long-tail boat can be hired for the twenty minute trip down-river to the smaller cemetery at Chungkai. Away from the town the Kwai has a placid feel about it, the banks green and heavily wooded. Houseboats and rice barges still make their way along the river and occasionally working elephants can be seen hauling teak along its banks.
There is a deep sense of peace at this smaller cemetery of less than 2000 graves, and as at the other cemetery, you will find quiet young Thai workers tending them. Butterflies flutter amongst the brilliantly coloured frangipani as though they are keeping company with those who lie underground and if a period of quiet contemplation is needed the tranquillity of this cemetery will make it easy.
Nothing can dilute the tragedy of the River Kwai and the sacrifice of the men who died building the Death Railway. Don't be put off by the River Kwai T. Shirts, the ubiquitous Coco-Cola signs and the tourists. Great events always leave something behind, and if you allow it, you will find it easy to tune into the emotional feel of the place.
These quiet graves are a reminder of something enduring in man.
See also The Bridge on the River Kwai
